Last Tuesday I had my first installment of my to-do list for fall at the request of my sister Sue; this is my second installment. These are not in any particular order as depending on what part of the country one lives might depend on when they might do these things.
Today's topic is pruning and if you are like me, I prune almost all year long sometimes for artistic reasons and sometimes out of necessity. I start out with a list of some of the more common pruning tools, there are many others but these are the ones that most people might have around the house.
Pruning - The Tools You Need
Pruning trees and plants will make your yard look better while also improving plant health and growth. In this article, we’ll discuss the tools to have on hand to prune more easily and correctly. In part two in the next newsletter, we’ll discuss when and how to prune.
The tool you’ll use depends on the size of the branches you will trim and the amount of pruning you will do. As with all lawn and garden equipment, buy the best quality you can afford and then be sure to maintain the items as necessary.
Oil is one of your tools best friends along with steel wool or a Scotch Brite pads to remove sap and rust from the blades. I use kerosene frequently as well, as it contains enough oil to help prevent rust from forming.
If you have an old five gallon pail around the house fill it with sand and then when you have your oil change in your vehicle add about a quart to the pail of sand and stir well. This does a couple things: first it help clean your digging tools, shovels, spades, trowels, etc. and secondly it adds a coat of oil to the tool.
This is especially important if the tool is going to be left in the garage for a long period of time like over the winter. If you make a habit of doing this every time that you use your tools they will give your years of faithful service.
Since we are talking about pruning, be sure to use steel wool or a Scotch Brite pad each time after you prune so that the sap does not build up making pruning much more difficult. Since rust will help to dull you cutting blade on your pruners it is important to add a coat of oil to the cutting parts of the pruners as well as the moving parts. A little oil will make pruning easier the next time you go to use them.
Hand Pruners are small pruners used to cut stems up to about three-quarters of an inch in diameter. There are two types: bypass and anvil. Bypass pruners are a good choice because they have curved scissors-type blades that overlap, making a clean, even cut. Anvil pruners have a straight upper blade that cuts down on a flat lower “anvil”, which can crush stems rather than cutting cleanly.
Lopping Shears function like giant pruners. Their long-handles provide leverage and reach to trim branches on bushes and trees up to about one and three-quarter inches in diameter. Look for bypass blades on loppers.
Pruning Saws are used to remove branches that are too large for the loppers. This saw comes in various lengths with jagged teeth that also can vary in depth and how far apart they are spaced. To handle thick branches easily, choose a longer saw with the fewest deep teeth per inch. Average jobs (branches about two inches in diameter) can be handled easily with any quality-pruning saw.
Pole Trimmers give you the reach you need to trim tree branches overhead that are up to about one-and-a-half inches thick. As their name implies, most pole trimmers consist of a pole up to about 12 feet long (telescoping or set) with a bypass lopper (controlled by a rope) and a small bow saw at the top.
Flower Sheers are small garden scissors with wide steel blades that make clean, precise cuts. They are perfect for “cutting” flowers for a bouquet and trimming dead leaves and very thin branches from perennials.
Manual Hedge Clippers have long blades that help you cut evenly and long handles that give you the reach you need for hedge trimming. Some people prefer manually trimming their hedges because this method is more forgiving than other trimmers where mistakes can happen quickly.
Chain Saws are used for removing branches greater than three inches in diameters to felling trees. Before purchasing a chain saw, consider exactly what you will use it for so you purchase the right size. The longer the blade length, the bigger job it will handle. Keep in mind that chain saws are serious power equipment. Safety must be top of mind at all times.
When to Prune and How to Do it
Reasons to prune
Pruning is done to improve the appearance and health of your bushes and trees, and sometimes the safety of your home (removing tree branches that overhang your roof, for example). Prune to remove dead or diseased branches; tree branches that are too crowded or touching one another; and “sucker branches” that grow from the ground alongside the tree’s trunk or even sprout up from the side of the trunk itself. Bush pruning also promotes stronger growth and can improve blooming.
Pruning bushes
When you prune your bushes depends on whether or not they are a flowering variety. If you have a bush that blooms in spring or early summer – such as a lilac or forsythia – prune them right after they have bloomed. If you wait until late summer or fall, you will remove buds that are already set to bloom the following spring (even though you cannot see them) and you will have a bush with fewer blooms or none at all next year.
Shrubs that bloom in mid- to late summer or early fall - such as butterfly bush, many spireas and even roses – should be pruned in late fall or very early spring while they are dormant.
Bushes used as hedges or borders that are not maintained for their blooms can be trimmed in summer or fall.
Pruning trees
You will want to prune low, overhanging branches above your roof or driveway to prevent possible damage from falling limbs. You also should remove dead tree limbs and thin out branches that are crowding one another. For many tree pruning jobs – especially those that require climbing or using a chain saw – it’s best to hire experts rather than risk injury. A pole trimmer can be used to thin out small branches easily while your feet are safely on the ground.
The type of tree determines the best time to prune. Generally, prune in late fall to winter, when you can easily see the shape of the branches and the trees are dormant. Some trees, such as maples and birches, tend to release sap excessively if pruned in winter. Trim these trees in summer.
Shaping young trees
You can help a young tree establish an attractive and healthy crown with selective pruning. Trim out crowded branches, if necessary, while creating a natural shape to the tree. Some trees will grow with two “leaders” or main branches – trim away one to ensure a balanced look as the tree matures. Pruning young trees will not hurt them – just be sure you prune no more than one-fourth of the branches in any year.
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5 comments:
Thank you. This is just what I need. I am also interested in wintering over the perennials I planted.
I just pruned about 2 feet off my rhododendrons. They are getting too tall in front of our window. I guess this may mean that we don't get many flowers next year, right? I had to do it thought, cause they are all growing together. Is there any technique as to where to trim or can you just cut off as much as needed?
Sue - I do not do a lot for our perennials as we do not have very harsh winters and sometimes do not even have a killing frost. I will put together some ideas that may help and things that I do for some of our perennials in the fall.
Alyssa - The best way to keep rhododendrons under control is to pick off the leaf buds that usually show up after the rhododendrons bloom. I usually do this when I am taking off the spent flowers as the leaf buds usually surround the flower buds.
You might want to wear gloves as doing this will get your fingers all sticky as the spent flowers are rather sticky.
Usually trimming a lot off any shrub like the rhododendron will drastically reduce the number of flowers that you will get the next year, that is why I would recommend doing it as one takes the spent flowers off.
In future years you might just pick the leaf buds off that will be growing at the top of the rhododendron and let the ones toward the bottom and sides alone to bloom the following year. This will also help your rhododendrons to fill out more.
I have had to prune mine a little but I try to keep that to a minimum. Part of that has to do with where one plants them. That is why it is important to think about the size a plant will grow to when planning ones landscape.
Planting shrubs in front of windows is usually not a good place especially if they have the potential to grow to a good size.
Good question!
You should have a column in the newspaper! You really know a lot about yard / plant care!!! Thanks for all the advice.
I should know a little about it as I have been doing it for fifty some odd years; with some of those years being odder than others.
I learned a lot from Grandpa and then starting about the age of ten I started taking care of neighbor's yards. Then I worked for the Bianchi's during my early college years
Then when I first got out here I worked for the parks and recreation department to earn money for school and to live on. So a good portion of what I know I have learned by watching someone who actually knew what they were doing.
Most of my advice is too simple and pretty unsophisticated so I do not think that it would go over really well; most people would rather just hire someone to do it for them.
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